While pruning most woody plants is best done by or before the middle of July when it’s desired to reduce plant size or re-shape the canopy, roses and peaches are best pruned in August. The reason for this is to prevent late season growth in the case of peaches to avoid damage to any new growth. Roses benefit from the stimulation of the plant, removal of dead or damaged canes and to prepare them for an impressive bloom in late September or in October.
Some home owners and gardeners actually do minimal pruning throughout the growing season, but February is the ideal time to do major pruning. It’s not at all uncommon to see roses that were severely pruned in February to be higher than your head by August. Therefore, it’s the time to get rid of the excess growth and fertilize now also to encourage a spectacular fall bloom.
Pruning roses in August should be much less severe then that done in February so somewhere around a 30-to-36 inch height when you finish is suggested. If possible, keep no more than five or six thumb-sized canes which you should cut back to the preferred height at a point just above an outward facing bud or node. Remove all other growth.
Once you have completed the necessary pruning, collect all of the wood removed and burn it if that’s an option. So far as fertilizer is concerned, you can use a general-purpose type at the rate of a quarter pound per plant, but using a product formulated for roses is often a better choice. Do stay at least a half foot away from the plant with your application. While shallow incorporation into the soil is often done, it’ better to put it on the surface and cover with a thick mulch.
Of course, it’s important to continue your efforts to control weeds, insects and diseases.
In our region peach trees are pruned to the open center system of branch structure. If they are pruned to that system from the time they are planted, the center of the tree typically remains open for better sun exposure and better pesticide coverage. The vigorous growth these trees are capable of making in a single year often results in new water sprouts and other similar growth which are both unproductive wood. Do leave a few short leafy twigs along the primary branches to protect from sun scald, but all of the other new wood in the center of the tree should be removed. The only other pruning that may be necessary is to sever one large branch to keep the canopy semi-open, to restore and improve the balance of the tree and to keep the vertical height low enough to make harvesting the fruit a bit easier.